Tips on How to Build Weight with Sectioning

Layered cuts are EVERYWHERE this fall. While shorter styles can be a little more intimidating than their longer counterparts. Four essential ingredients for success: suitability, individuality, technique and taste.

1. Prep the hair with a cutting agent

Clean sections are ESSENTIAL for an even, balanced cut. A reliable protein spray can help the hair hold its shape by retaining moisture. Save time by strategically sectioning out the hair. A pre-planned roadmap allows you to focus on creating the shape, rather than trying to balance the cut and fix any mistakes.

2. Section following the hairline to stay organized


Start with a center part all the way down the head and a radial parting from the top of the head to the top of each ear. Work down and back, resulting in a triangular shape that follows the hairline.

Clean up the nape with scissors rather than a razor for a more natural and less spiky grow-out. Remember that practice makes perfect—scissors MUST be kept flat against the skin with zero elevation to avoid nicks.


3. Combine diagonal sections with horizontal cutting for a natural grow-out.
Creates a more natural, wearable look by combining diagonal sections with horizontal cutting. Why? Taking vertical sections would only result in a short-to-long pattern without the distinct square shape you are looking for.


Pro tip: It’s really easy to have an initial consultation and leave it at that, but the REAL consultation ends when the client actually leaves the salon. As you’re cutting, you might see something you like or want to add to the cut. For instance, consult about adding a fringe once the cut is already done, so the client can choose. Remember, clients LOVE flexibility and spontaneity—even if they don’t necessarily go along with it from time to time.


4. Start cutting at the top of section rather than the bottom
To best tailor the cut to the client’s head shape, plan on debulking each section starting from the top instead of the bottom. This way, it’s easier to over direct lower sections from longer lengths.

If your goal  with the cut is to go shorter through the sides and back, build weight before layering and adding internal movement.


Source: BTC Behind the Chair